t is now my intention to treat of ladies’ wigs, but before doing so, I desire to make a few general remarks concerning them. If possible, I think it best to avoid making an entire wig for ladies’ wear, if the customary plaited knot is intended to be worn behind, and my reason for expressing such an opinion will presently appear. Partial baldness among the female sex is not uncommon, but this defect can well be concealed by coverings specially made for the purpose. These pieces of ingenious workmanship, be they frontlets, scalpettes, fringes, partings, twists, chignons, curls, plaits, or what not, are easily and securely attached to the natural hair-growth, while a ribbon-bow, feather, flower, lace, cap, or other decoration lends a charm, and completes the coiffure. But when a wig is required, through the head being very considerably 210deprived of its natural covering, a difficulty immediately arises as to holding it securely in position, and this difficulty is increased by the smoothness of the scalp, caused, perhaps, through the nature of the ailment, or in consequence of the head being shaved. Besides, to promote the growth of hair, the shaving process should be frequently repeated, and, as a consequence, the smoothness remains until the hair has acquired sufficient strength and thickness to be permitted to grow. Then, as the hair increases in growth, the wig becomes more troublesome, and it is a welcome moment when the wearer can discontinue its use, and appear in a “short crop” which is, at the present time, so generally adopted for fashion’s sake. But some cases of alopecia are known to have defied all attempts to restore the hair, while others, again, only lose it for a time, from no assignable reason. Instances like this necessarily require coverings for the head, which, in the case of gentlemen, are comparatively easy to deal with, but in long-haired wigs for ladies it is a different matter altogether.
Copious instructions have been given respecting board work in general, and the various manufactures therewith connected; and the ingenious tradesman will find but little difficulty, I am inclined to think, in devising a wig for ladies’ wear, whether it be curled all over as a “friz,” with or without parting, or frizzed in front only, with the hair short and partially straight behind. In either case the 211wearer would be at liberty to exercise discretion in the use of additional postiches, which may be employed with advantage, either as regards appearance, comfort, and what is perhaps no less important—additional security. In making wigs let it be a golden rule (1) that they bind well to the head, and (2) that the front and back parts be equally-well balanced, or, as nearly so as possible. I said just now that I thought “it best to avoid making an entire wig for ladies’ wear, especially if the customary plaited knot is intended to be worn behind,” and here is my reason for saying so: It too frequently happens that wigs of this description are over-weighted at the back. Consequently they slide away from the face, leaving the forehead bare. This, of course, is a fearful source of anxiety and annoyance to the wearer, and complaint is forthwith made to the tradesman who executed the order. The article is then returned perhaps as a misfit, or else to undergo certain alterations. These are carried out by additional depth being given to the front; necessitating, perhaps, the insertion of a new parting; the hair at the back probably will be reduced in quantity (and it may be shortened), the result proving, doubtless, satisfactory. Why? Because the wig is now more evenly balanced, and consequently sits upon the head a great deal better. Here, then, is the secret of making a wig feel comfortable—let it be well proportioned, and use no more hair than is necessary. I cannot conceive 212anything so distressing to a wearer as the feeling of anxiety and discomfort which a wig causes through evincing a strong tendency to slip down behind. This should be overcome, and a clever wig-maker can, if permitted to use his own judgment, prevent, under ordinary circumstances, such a contretemps taking place.
Respecting the mounting of a lady’s wig, I wish, in the first place, to direct the learner’s attention to what I have said upon the subject in preceding chapters, so as to avoid unnecessary repetitions. True the matter there refers to those worn by gentlemen, but the modus operandi is almost identical, and will apply, to a very great extent, in both instances. The clean block and pencilled outline, the putting on of the galloon, and attention to curves, the ears, temples, etc., must be equally 213well attended to—the principal difference being in the shape of the front part, to which it is requisite more particularly to allude.
In comparing Fig. 38 (mount for gentleman’s wig) with the mount for a lady’s wig,[28] the variation becomes apparent. A gentleman wears the parting at the side, but as a lady usually parts her hair in the centre, the front has necessarily to be somewhat differently designed. Let us suppose that a wig has to be made according to the design given on the preceding page, with a patent skin parting in front and long hair behind. The parting, I should say, ought to be five or six inches in length if straight hair is to be employed, and, perhaps, still longer should “a friz,” or short curls be desired. Why? To preserve the balance as much as possible, of which I have already spoken. There might be (say, for example) two ounces of 14 and 16–inch hair in front, and two and a-half ounces of 18 and 20–inch at the back; and if the mount be made well forward there need not be any apprehension of the wig slipping off. But should the wearer wish to have a fringe on the forehead, with curls at the sides (either long or short), equality of weight must, nevertheless, be maintained, and the other portion treated accordingly. A well-balanced wig is, at all times, essential to success.
To make a wig, then, for straight hair only, mount it as previously instructed. Having fixed 214the galloon according to pencilled outlines, baste it carefully and put another piece of galloon across the top, which must extend from ear to ear. Next attach galloon to where the mount rises above the temples, pass it round the back like a fillet, and fasten on to the corresponding side. Prepare and cover the springs, and place in position as indicated. In the neck, just behind the ears, two other springs are to be attached, similar to those marked in Fig. 39. Galloon is also to pass from the top of the parting to the nape of the neck; a piece of broad ribbon on the top, between the two springs,[29] and the net being put on finishes the mount. Whether the hair shall be woven or knotted is optional, and in reference to both methods of affixing hair, instructions have been freely given in other places. If the former be decided upon it may be advisable to refer to page 139, i.e., in so far as the front is concerned, but a somewhat different way must be adopted with the back. After filling up the neck and angular parts with the longest or most suitable length of hair, it will be found that there remains a more or less circular place at the back to be covered, and in order to do this properly the sewing should be commenced in the middle, and continued round and round (like making rings upon paper without removing the pencil), until the whole is filled in. The weft ought to be very fine and well spread, and in the centre part especially the rows need not be anything 215like close together. Indeed, rather than leave an unseemly opening, I have found it necessary at times to fill up the middle portion with short, fine hair, which, being concealed by the longer hair is no defect whatever. By such an arrangement, lightness is maintained, while the rows of weft are continuous and regular. The weft being measured, and a calculation made as to the space to be covered, the worker must then act accordingly. There are two principal points now to be mentioned. First, the cross-parting from ear to ear, which in the present instance I have designed should be formed with the weft. It requires some little ability to do this nicely, for the hair must be so placed as to conceal the weft, though still making a separation or parting. Some do it by adroitly covering with the hair all the weft except the last row, which, being closely woven and very fine withal, is sewn on the wig the wrong way, but, the hair being pressed into proper position, covers the weft, and effectually conceals it from view. There are other modes of attaining this object, but much depends on a man’s ingenuity, for here is a difficulty which a clever workman must seek to overcome. Secondly, it is natural for some fine, short, more or less fluffy hair to grow in the neck; and here is the next trial of skill on the part of the wig-maker. No weft, of course, should be seen in such a noticeable place, therefore attention must be given at the outset to hide the lower row or rows, partly by skilful manipulation in 216sewing on, and also by means of the short hair to which I have just alluded. In effecting the concealment of the weft, attention should be given to the different kinds employed in the manufacture of postiches, etc.[30]
Referring to the illustration last given, I wish to observe that the mount there shown can be adapted to a transparent, instead of a skin parting, with very little trouble. An order might be taken for one of the latter description, and perhaps countermanded when the mount is completed in favour of one of a lighter manufacture. All that is necessary under such circumstances would be to cut away the lower-central piece of galloon; adapt the basting threads to the altered conditions, and connect with zigzag stitches.[31] Besides, alterations are not unfrequently required in wigs after they have been worn; and a wearer may wish for increased ventilation in it, through its causing the head to feel hot and uncomfortable; or other changes might be wanted which necessitate the insertion of a new parting. The requirements of people are various, but the ingenious workman seldom acknowledges a difficulty that (within reasonable limits) cannot be overcome.
To make a lady’s wig with transparent partings, pencil the outlines upon a clean block, but, if possible, get the partings done before-hand; my reason for this I have already given. Exactness is essential, for, with the mount being 217made in one place and the partings (front and cross-partings) in another, a discrepancy might occur which is best avoided. I will suppose that the hair, partings, galloon, net, etc., are all ready to hand; the measurements carefully observed, and, perhaps, some other necessary details noted. Commence by tacking on the galloon at the neck, bring it towards the left ear, and then, over the temple to the side of the parting; turn, and continue the galloon as far back towards the crown as the front parting is intended to go. Turn again, and fasten off at the top of the ear, taking care to follow the line marked for the parting. A portion of one side of the mount is thus formed which can be traced by referring to Fig. 42. The right side should be done in the same way, and I need hardly observe that both sides must correspond exactly. Next place the galloon so as to extend from one temple to the other, and across the back of the neck after the manner of a fillet, but it must overlap (just behind the ear) that which was first put on. Another piece of galloon is next to be fixed in position across the top of the head, extending from one ear to the other. With an obvious exception at the top, there will now be two galloons exactly the width and length of the cross parting, and two galloons in front also, exactly the width and length of the front parting. The professed wig-maker may raise an objection to the galloon remaining at the ends of the side partings; 218but in such places it will scarcely be seen, and by allowing it to remain much additional strength is given to the wig—no unimportant consideration with those of an economical turn of mind. But, as I have repeatedly stated, these lessons are not designedly for the very skilful, and it is a question whether the man who attempts to make a wig such as I am describing need refer to this at all. I imagine not, but there are learners, and to them instruction will always be acceptable. The springs (made of fine watch-spring) are to be neatly covered and placed in their respective positions. It is advisable to affix one on each side of the front parting, and the others where necessary to maintain the proper shape of the mount. The net should be put on next and sewn according to instructions frequently given before. Whether the hair is to be knotted or woven, the maker must decide, but perhaps the former is best adapted for a wig of this kind. Whether the partings should be attached before or after a greater portion of the hair is knotted or sewn on, is optional, so long as their proper adaptation is secured. Should they be of gauze or net, it may be thought desirable, first of all, to attach some thin skin, to counteract as much as possible the effects of perspiration and grease; but if the foundation be made of human hair, no such precaution is necessary.
I have before alluded to the different kinds of net used in wig-making, and there is also variety 219in galloons, some being white and some flesh-colour, as well as the ordinary brown. Bear in mind my remarks about ladies’ wigs being well-balanced, and when measuring the head, carefully observe the shape. If smooth and round, two elastic springs in the neck will be absolutely necessary; but should the head incline to fulness (either back or front) these more or less prominent organs, speaking phrenologically, will perhaps give a “stay” to the wig, and the elastics may be considered unnecessary. A word or two concerning natural elevations and depressions may probably be useful. It has been previously stated that in mounting a wig the block must be at least half an inch larger round than the actual measurement; this is to allow for shrinking. Should there be any protuberances or “bumps” apparent, a similar elevation must be made upon the block, and, of course, exactly in the same position. This may be done with thin sheet lead, such as tea-chests are lined with; but should there be a depression, then the place upon the block must be filed or scraped away if necessary. The block is, as it were, the model; and with a good model to work upon, a perfect fit can almost be ensured.
I need not dilate upon any other styles of ladies’ wigs, believing that I have said quite enough to enable a man to make almost anything that might be required.