Chapter 11 THE MAN-MILLINER.

  11Gaston de Gandelu was much surprised at finding that Andre should beignorant of the existence of Van Klopen, the best-known man in Paris.

To assure oneself of this, it was only necessary to glance at hiscirculars, which were ornamented with the representations of medalswon at all sorts of exhibitions in different quarters of the world,together with various decorations received from foreign potentates.

One had been presented to him by the Queen of Spain, while he had adiploma appointing him the supplier to the Court of the Czar. Thegreat Van Klopen was not an Alsatian, as was generally supposed, but astout, handsome Dutchman, who, in the year 1850, had been a tailor inhis small native town, and manufactured in cloth, purchased on credit,the long waistcoats and miraculous coats worn by the wealthy citizensof Rotterdam. Van Klopen, however, was not successful in his business,and was compelled to close his shop and abscond from his creditors. Hetook refuge in Paris, where he seemed likely to die of hunger. One dayover a magnificent establishment in the Rue de Grammont appeared asignboard with the name of Van Klopen, dressmaker, and in thethousands of handbills distributed with the utmost profusion, hecalled himself the "Regenerator of Fashion." This was an idea thatwould have never originated in the brain of the phlegmatic Dutchman,and whence came the funds to carry on the business? On this point hewas discreetly silent. The enterprise was at first far from a success,for during nearly a month Paris almost split its sides laughing at theabsurd pretensions of the self-dubbed "Regenerator of Fashion." VanKlopen bent before the storm he had aroused, and in due time hisadvertisements brought him two customers, who were the first to blowthe trumpet of his fame. One was the Duchess de Suirmeuse, a verygreat lady indeed, and renowned for her eccentricities and extravagantmanner, while the other was an example of another class being no lessthan the celebrated Jennie Fancy, who was at that time under theprotection of the Count de Tremouselle; and for these two Van Klopeninvented such dresses as had never been seen before. From this momenthis success was certain; indeed, it was stupendous, and Parisresounded with his praises. Now he has achieved a world-widereputation, and has nothing to fear from the attacks of his rivals. Hewould not execute orders for every one, saying that he must pick andchoose his customers, and he did so, excising the names of such as hedid not think would add to his reputation. Rank and wealth disputedthe honor of being his customers. The haughtiest dames did not shrinkfrom entrusting to him secrets of form and figure, which they even hidfrom their husbands. They endured without shrinking the touch of hiscoarse hands as he measured them. He was the rage, and his showroomswere a species of neutral ground, where women of all circles ofsociety met and examined each other. The Duchess of --- did not shrinkfrom being in the same room with the celebrated woman for whom theBaron de --- had blown out the few brains he possessed. Perhaps theDuchess thought that by employing the same costumier, she might alsogain some of the venal beauteous attractions. Mademoiselle D---, ofthe Gymnase Theatre, who was well known to earn just one thousandfrancs per annum, took a delight in astonishing the haughty ladies offashion by the reckless extravagance of her orders. Van Klopen, whowas a born diplomatist, distributed his favors between his differentcustomers; consequently he was termed the most charming and angelic ofmen. Many a time had he heard the most aristocratic lips let fall thewords, "I shall die, Van Klopen, if my dress is not ready." On theevenings of the most aristocratic balls a long line of carriagesblocked up the road in front of his establishment, and the finestwomen in Paris crowded the showrooms for a word of approval from him.

He gave credit to approved customers, and also, it was whispered, lentmoney to them. But woe to the woman who permitted herself to beentrapped in the snare of credit that he laid for her; for the womanwho owed him a bill was practically lost, never knowing to what depthsshe might be degraded to obtain the money to settle her account. Itwas not surprising that such sudden prosperity should have turned VanKlopen's head. He was stout and ruddy, impudent, vain, and cynical.

His admirers said that he was witty.

It was to this man's establishment that Mascarin conducted Paul aftera sumptuous breakfast at Philipe's.

It is necessary to give a slight description of Van Klopen'sestablishment. Carpets of the most expensive description covered thestairs to his door on the first floor, at which stood the liveriedmenials resplendent in gold lace and scarlet. As soon as Mascarin madehis appearance, one of these gorgeous creatures hastened to him andsaid, "M. Van Klopen is just now engaged with the Princess Korasoff,but as soon as he hears of your arrival he will manage to get rid ofher. Will you wait for him in his private room?"But Mascarin answered,--"We are in no hurry, and may as well wait in the public room with theother customers. Are there many of them?""There are about a dozen ladies, sir.""Good; I am sure that they will amuse me."And, without wasting any more words, Mascarin opened a door which ledinto a magnificent drawing-room, decorated in very florid style. Thepaper on the walls almost disappeared beneath a variety of watercolorsketches, representing ladies in every possible style of costume. Eachpicture had an explanatory note beneath it, such as "Costume of Mde.

de C--- for a dinner at the Russian Ambassador's," "Ball costume ofthe Marchioness de V--- for a ball at the Hotel de Ville," etc.

Paul, who was a little nervous at finding himself among such splendor,hesitated in the doorway; but Mascarin seized his young friend by thearm, and, as he drew him to a settee, whispered in his ear,--"Keep your eyes about you; the heiress is here."The ladies were at first a little surprised at this invasion of theroom by the male element, but Paul's extreme beauty soon attractedtheir attention. The hum of conversation ceased, and Paul'sembarrassment increased as he found a battery of twelve pairs of eyesdirected full upon him.

Mascarin, however, was quite at his ease, and upon his entrance hadmade a graceful though rather old-fashioned bow to the fair inmates ofthe room. His coolness was partly due to the contempt he felt for thehuman race in general, and also to his colored glasses, which hid theexpression of his countenance. When he saw that Paul still kept hiseyes on the ground, he tapped him gently on the arm.

"Is this the first time you ever saw well-dressed women? Surely youare not afraid of them. Look to the right," continued Mascarin, "andyou will see the heiress."A young girl, not more than eighteen, was seated near one of thewindows. She was not perhaps so beautiful as Mascarin had described,but her face was a very striking one nevertheless. She was slight andgood-looking, with the clear complexion of a brunette. Her featureswere not perhaps very regular, but her glossy black hair was a beautyin itself. She had a pair of dark, melting eyes, and her wide, highforehead showed that she was gifted with great intelligence. There wasan air of restrained voluptuousness about her, and she seemed the veryembodiment of passion.

Paul felt insensibly attracted toward her. Their eyes met, and bothstarted at the same moment. Paul was fascinated in an instant, and thegirl's emotion was so evident that she turned aside her head toconceal it.

The babel had now commenced again, and general attention was beingpaid to a lady who was enthusiastically describing the last newcostume which had made its appearance in the Bois de Boulogue.

"It was simply miraculous," said she; "a real triumph of Van Klopen'sart. The ladies of a certain class are furious, and Henry deCroisenois tells me that Jenny Fancy absolutely shed tears of rage.

Imagine three green skirts of different shades, each draped----"Mascarin, however, only paid attention to Paul and the young girl, anda sarcastic smile curled his lips.

"What do you think of her?" asked he.

"She is adorable!" answered Paul, enthusiastically.

"And immensely wealthy.""I should fall at her feet if she had not a sou."Mascarin gave a little cough, and adjusted his glasses.

"Should you, my lad?" said he to himself; "whether your admiration isfor the girl or her money, you are in my grip."Then he added, aloud,--"Would you not like to know her name?""Tell me, I entreat you.""Flavia."Paul was in the seventh heaven, and now boldly turned his eyes on thegirl, forgetting that owing to the numerous mirrors, she could see hisevery movement.

The door was at this moment opened quietly, and Van Klopen appeared onthe threshold. He was about forty-four, and too stout for his height.

His red, pimply face had an expression upon it of extreme insolence,and his accent was thoroughly Dutch. He was dressed in a ruby velvetdressing-gown, with a cravat with lace ends. A huge cluster-diamondring blazed on his coarse, red hand.

"Who is the next one?" asked he, rudely.

The lady who had been talking so volubly rose to her feet, but thetailor cut her short, for catching sight of Mascarin, he crossed theroom, and greeted him with the utmost cordiality.

"What!" said he; "is it you that I have been keeping waiting? Praypardon me. Pray go into my private room; and this gentleman is withyou? Do me the favor, sir, to come with us."He was about to follow his guests, when one of the ladies startedforward.

"One word with you, sir, for goodness sake!" cried she.

Van Klopen turned sharply upon her.

"What is the matter?" asked he.

"My bill for three thousand francs falls due to-morrow.""Very likely.""But I can't meet it.""That is not my affair.""I have come to beg you will renew it for two months, or say onemonth, on whatever terms you like.""In two months," answered the man brutally, "you will be no more ableto pay than you are to-day. If you can't pay it, it will be noted.""Merciful powers! then my husband will learn all.""Just so; that will be what I want; for he will then have to pay me."The wretched woman grew deadly pale.

"My husband will pay you," said she; "but I shall be lost.""That is not my lookout. I have partners whose interests I have toconsult.""Do not say that, sir! He has paid my debts once, and if he should beangry and take my children from me--Dear M. Van Klopen, be merciful!"She wrung her hands, and the tears coursed down her cheeks; but thetailor was perfectly unmoved.

"When a woman has a family of children, one ought to have in aneedlewoman by the hour."She did not desist from her efforts to soften him, and, seizing hishand, strove to carry it to her lips.

"Ah! I shall never dare to go home," wailed she; "never have thecourage to tell my husband.""If you are afraid of your own husband, go to some one else's," saidhe roughly; and tearing himself from her, he followed Mascarin andPaul.

"Did you hear that?" asked he, as soon as he had closed the door ofhis room with an angry slam. "These things occasionally occur, and arenot particularly pleasant."Paul looked on in disgust. If he had possessed three thousand francs,he would have given them to this unhappy woman, whose sobs he couldstill hear in the passage.

"It is most painful," remarked he.

"My dear sir," said the tailor, "you attach too much importance tothese hysterical outbursts. If you were in my place, you would soonhave to put their right value on them. As I said before, I have tolook after my own and my partners' interests. These dear creaturescare for nothing but dress; father, husband, and children are asnothing in comparison. You cannot imagine what a woman will do inorder to get a new dress, in which to outshine her rival. They onlytalk of their families when they are called on to pay up."Paul still continued to plead for some money for the poor lady, andthe discussion was getting so warm that Mascarin felt bound tointerfere.

"Perhaps," said he, "you have been a little hard.""Pooh," returned the tailor; "I know my customer; and to-morrow myaccount will be settled, and I know very well where the money willcome from. Then she will give me another order, and we shall have thewhole comedy over again. I know what I am about." And taking Mascarininto the window, he made some confidential communication, at whichthey both laughed heartily.

Paul, not wishing to appear to listen, examined the consulting-room,as Van Klopen termed it. He saw a great number of large scissors, yardmeasures, and patterns of material, and heaps of fashion plates.

By this time the two men had finished their conversation.

"I had," said Mascarin, as they returned to the fireplace, "I hadmeant to glance through the books; but you have so many customerswaiting, that I had better defer doing so.""Is that all that hinders you?" returned Van Klopen, carelessly. "Waita moment."He left the room, and in another moment his voice was heard.

"I am sorry, ladies, very sorry, on my word; but I am busy with mysilk mercer. I shall not be very long.""We will wait," returned the ladies in chorus.

"That is the way," remarked Van Klopen, as he returned to theconsulting-room. "Be civil to women, and they turn their backs on you;try and keep them off, and they run after you. If I was to put up 'noadmittance' over my door, the street would be blocked up with women.

Business has never been better," continued the tailor, producing alarge ledger. "Within the last ten days we have had in ordersamounting to eighty-seven thousand francs.""Good!" answered Mascarin; "but let us have a look at the columnheaded 'Doubtful.' ""Here you are," returned the arbiter of fashion, as he turned over theleaves. "Mademoiselle Virginie Cluhe has ordered five theatricalcostumes, two dinner, and three morning dresses.""That is a heavy order.""I wanted for that reason to consult you. She doesn't owe us much--perhaps a thousand francs or so.""That is too much, for I hear that her friend has come to grief. Donot decline the order, but avoid taking fresh ones."Van Klopen made a few mysterious signs in the margin of his ledger.

"On the 6th of this month the Countess de Mussidan gave us an order--aperfectly plain dress for her daughter. Her account is a very heavyone, and the Count has warned us that he will not pay it.""Never mind that. Go on with the order, put press for payment.""On the 7th a new customer came--Mademoiselle Flavia, the daughter ofMartin Rigal, the banker."When Paul heard this name, he could not repress a start, of which,however, Mascarin affected to take no notice.

"My good friend," said he, turning to Van Klopen, "I confide thisyoung lady to you; give her your whole stock if she asks for it."By the look of surprise which appeared upon the tailor's face, Paulcould see that Mascarin was not prodigal of such recommendations.

"You shall be obeyed," said Van Klopen, with a bow.

"On the 8th a young gentleman of the name of Gaston de Gandelu wasintroduced by Lupeaux, the jeweller. His father is, I hear, verywealthy, and he will come into money on attaining his majority, whichis near at hand. He brought with him a lady," continued the tailor,"and said her name was Zora de Chantemille, a tremendously prettygirl.""That young man is always in my way," said Mascarin. "I would givesomething to get him out of Paris."Van Klopen reflected for a moment. "I don't think that would bedifficult," remarked he; "that young fellow is capable of any act offolly for that fair girl.""I think so too.""Then the matter is easy. I will open an account with him; then, aftera little, I will affect doubts as to his solvency, and ask for a bill;and we shall then place our young friend in the hands of the MutualLoan Society, and M. Verminet will easily persuade him to write hisname across the bottom of a piece of stamped paper. He will bring itto me; I will accept it, and then we shall have him hard and fast.""I should have proposed another course.""I see no other way, however," He suddenly stopped, for a loud noisewas heard in the ante-room, and the sound of voices in loudcontention.

"I should like to know," said Van Klopen, rising to his feet, "who theimpudent scoundrel is, who comes here kicking up a row. I expect thatit is some fool of a husband.""Go and see what it is," suggested Mascarin.

"Not I! My servants are paid to spare me such annoyances."Presently the noise ceased.

"And now," resumed Mascarin, "let us return to our own affairs. Underthe circumstances, your proposal appears to be a good one. How aboutwriting in another name? A little forgery would make our handsstronger." He rose, and taking the tailor into the window recess,again whispered to him.

During this conversation Paul's cheek had grown paler and paler, for,occupied as he was, he could not fail to comprehend something of whatwas going on. During the breakfast Mascarin had partially disclosedmany strange secrets, and since then he had been even moreenlightened. It was but too evident to him that his protector wasengaged in some dark and insidious plot, and Paul felt that he wasstanding over a mine which might explode at any moment. He now beganto fancy that there was some mysterious link between the womanSchimmel, who was so carefully watched, and the Marquis de Croisenois,so haughty, and yet on such intimate terms with the proprietor of theregistry office. Then there was the Countess de Mussidan, Flavia, therich heiress, and Gaston de Gandelu, who was to be led into a crimethe result of which would be penal servitude,--all jumbled and mixedup together in one strange phantasmagoria. Was he, Paul, to be a meretool in such hands? Toward what a precipice was he being impelled!

Mascarin and Van Klopen were not friends, as he had at first supposed,but confederates in villainy. Too late did he begin to see collusionbetween Mascarin and Tantaine, which had resulted in his being accusedof theft during his absence. But the web had been woven too securely,and should he struggle to break through it, he might find himselfexposed to even more terrible dangers. He felt horrified at hisposition, but with this there was mingled no horror of the criminalityof his associates, for the skilful hand of Mascarin had unwound andmastered all the bad materials of his nature. He was dazzled at theglorious future held out before him, and said to himself that a manlike Mascarin, unfettered by law, either human or Divine, would bemost likely to achieve his ends. "I should be in no danger," mused heto himself, "if I yield myself up to the impetuous stream which isalready carrying me along, for Mascarin is practised swimmer enough tokeep both my head and his own above water."Little did Paul think that every fleeting expression in hiscountenance was caught up and treasured by the wily Mascarin; and itwas intentionally that he had permitted Paul to listen to thiscompromising conversation. He had decided that very morning, that ifPaul was to be a useful tool, he must be at once set face to face withthe grim realities of the position.

"Now," said he, "for the really serious reason for my visit. How do westand now with regard to the Viscountess Bois Arden?"Van Klopen gave his shoulders a shrug as he answered, "She is allright. I have just sent her several most expensive costumes.""How much does she owe you?""Say twenty-five thousand francs. She has owed us more than thatbefore.""Really" remarked Mascarin, "that woman has been grossly libelled; sheis vain, frivolous, and fond of admiration, but nothing more. For awhole fortnight I have been prying into her life, but I can't hit uponanything in it to give us a pull over her. The debt may help us,however. Does her husband know that she has an account with us?""Of course he does not; he is most liberal to her, and if heinquired-- ""Then we are all right; we will send in the bill to him.""But, my good sir," urged Van Klopen, "it was only last week that shepaid us a heavy sum on account.""The more reason to press her, for she must be hard up."Van Klopen would have argued further, but an imperious sign fromMascarin reduced him to silence.

"Listen to me," said Mascarin, "and please do not interrupt me. Areyou known to the domestics at the house of the Viscountess?""Not at all.""Well, then, at three o'clock sharp, the day after to-morrow, call onher. Her footman will say that Madame has a visitor with her.""I will say I will wait.""Not at all. You must almost force your way in, and you will find theViscountess talking to the Marquis de Croisenois. You know him, Isuppose?""By sight--nothing more.""That is sufficient. Take no notice of him; but at once present yourbill, and violently insist upon immediate payment.""What can you be thinking of? She will have me kicked out of doors.""Quite likely; but you must threaten to take the bill to her husband.

She will command you to leave the house, but you will sit downdoggedly and declare that you will not move until you get the money.""But that is most unbusinesslike behavior.""I quite agree with you; but the Marquis de Croisenois will interfere;he will throw a pocketbook in your face, exclaiming, 'There is yourmoney, you impudent scoundrel!' ""Then I am to slink away?""Yes, but before doing so, you will give a receipt in this form--'Received from the Marquis de Croisenois, the sum of so many francs,in settlement of the account of the Viscountess Bois Arden.' ""If I could only understand the game," muttered the puzzled VanKlopen.

"There is no necessity for that now; only act up to yourinstructions.""I will obey, but remember that we shall not only lose her custom, butthat of all her acquaintance."Again the same angry sounds were heard in the corridor.

"It is scandalous," cried a voice. "I have been waiting an hour; mysword and armor. What, ho, lackeys; hither, I say. Van Klopen isengaged, is he? Hie to him and say I must see him at once."The two accomplices exchanged looks, as though they recognized theshrill, squeaky voice.

"That is our man," whispered Mascarin, as the door was violently flungopen, and Gaston de Gandelu burst in. He was dressed even moreextravagantly than usual, and his face was inflamed with rage.

"Here am I," cried he; "and an awful rage I am in. Why, I have beenwaiting twenty minutes. I don't care a curse for your rules andregulations."The tailor was furious at this intrusion; but as Mascarin was present,and he felt that he must respect his orders, he by a great effortcontrolled himself.

"Had I known, sir," said he sulkily, "that you were here----"These few words mollified the gorgeous youth, who at once broke in.

"I accept your apologies," cried he; "the lackeys remove our arms, thejoust is over. My horses have been standing all this time, and mayhave taken cold. Of course you have seen my horses. Splendid animals,are they not? Zora is in the other room. Quick, fetch her here."With these words he rushed into the passage and shouted out, "Zora,Mademoiselle de Chantemille, my dear one, come hither."The renowned tailor was exquisitely uncomfortable at so terrible ascene in his establishment. He cast an appealing glance at Mascarin,but the face of the agent seemed carved in marble. As to Paul, he wasquite prepared to accept this young gentleman as a perfect type of theglass of fashion and the mould of form, and could not forbear pityinghim in his heart. He went across the room to Mascarin.

"Is there no way," whispered he, "of saving this poor young fellow?"Mascarin smiled one of those livid smiles which chilled the hearts ofthose who knew him thoroughly.

"In fifteen minutes," said he, "I will put the same question to you,leaving you to reply to it. Hush, this is the first real test that youhave been subjected to; if you are not strong enough to go through it,then we had better say farewell. Be firm, for a thunderbolt is aboutto fall!"The manner in which these apparently trivial words were spokenstartled Paul, who, by a strong effort, recovered his self-possession;but, prepared as he was, it was with the utmost difficulty that hestifled the expression of rage and surprise that rose to his lips atthe sight of the woman who entered the room. The Madame deChantemille, the Zora of the youthful Gandelu, was there, attired inwhat to his eyes seemed a most dazzling costume. Rose seemed a littletimid as Gandelu almost dragged her into the room.

"How silly you are!" said he. "What is there to be frightened at? Heis only in a rage with his flunkies for having kept us waiting."Zora sank negligently into an easy chair, and the gorgeously attiredyouth addressed the all-powerful Van Klopen.

"Well, have you invented a costume that will be worthy of Madame'scharms?"For a few moments Van Klopen appeared to be buried in profoundmeditation.

"Ah," said he, raising his hand with a grandiloquent gesture, "I haveit; I can see it all in my mind's eye.""What a man!" murmured Gaston in deep admiration.

"Listen," resumed the tailor, his eye flashing with the fire ofgenius. "First, a walking costume with a polonaise and a cape /a lapensionnaire/; bodice, sleeves, and underskirt of a brilliantchestnut----"He might have continued in this strain for a long time, and Zora wouldnot have heard a word, for she had caught sight of Paul, and in spiteof all her audacity, she nearly fainted. She was so ill at ease, thatyoung Gandelu at last perceived it; but not knowing the effect thatthe appearance of Paul would necessarily cause, and being also ratherdull of comprehension he could not understand the reason for it.

"Hold hard, Van Klopen, hold hard! the joy has been too much for her,and I will lay you ten to one that she is going into hysterics."Mascarin saw that Paul's temper might blaze forth at any moment, andso hastened to put an end to a scene which was as absurd as it wasdangerous.

"Well, Van Klopen, I will say farewell," said he. "Good morning,madame; good morning, sir;" and taking Paul by the arm, he led himaway by a private exit which did not necessitate their passing throughthe great reception-room.

It was time for him to do so, and not until they were in the streetdid the wily Mascarin breathe freely.

"Well, what do you say, now?" asked he.

Paul's vanity had been so deeply wounded, and the effort that he hadmade to restrain himself so powerful, that he could only reply by agasp.

"He felt it more than I thought he would," said Mascarin to himself.

"The fresh air will revive him."Paul's legs bent under him, and he staggered so that Mascarin led himinto a little /café/ hard by, and ordered a glass of cognac, and in ashort time Paul was himself once again.

"You are better now," observed Mascarin; and then, believing it wouldbe best to finish his work, he added, "A quarter of an hour ago Ipromised that I would ask you to settle what our intentions were to beregarding M. de Gandelu.""That is enough," broke in Paul, violently.

Mascarin put on his most benevolent smile.

"You see," remarked he, "how circumstances change ideas. Now you aregetting quite reasonable.""Yes, I am reasonable enough now; that is, that I mean to be wealthy.

You have no need to urge me on any more. I am willing to do whateveryou desire, for I will never again endure degradation like that I havegone through to-day.""You have let temper get the better of you," returned Mascarin, with ashrug of his shoulders.

"My anger may pass over, but my determination will remain as strong asever.""Do not decide without thinking the matter well over," answered theagent. "To-day you are your own master; but if you give yourself up tome, you must resign your dearly loved liberty.""I am prepared for all."Victory had inclined to the side of Mascarin, and he wasproportionally jubilant.

"Good," said he. "Then Dr. Hortebise shall introduce you to MartinRigal, the father of Mademoiselle Flavia, and one week after yourmarriage I will give you a duke's coronet to put on the panels of yourcarriage."